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Throughout Virginia more than sixty aquaculture farms raise oysters, with new growers frequently joining their ranks, including in the waters surrounding the Revolutionary City.
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Photo used courtesy Waypoint Seafood & Grill.
With oysters available year round, there is no better way to enjoy summertime.
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Photo used courtesy Waypoint Seafood & Grill.
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Photo used courtesy Waypoint Seafood & Grill.
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Photo used courtesy Waypoint Seafood & Grill.
It’s true what they say. “Twas a brave man who first ate an oyster.”
But Virginians owe a special debt of gratitude to that brave soul, especially today, given that oysters are one of the rising stars of Virginia's seafood industry, making a name for themselves at home, around the world, and right here in Williamsburg.
But why is the oyster becoming so famed throughout Virginia? Where are the local oysters getting harvested, and most importantly, where can you find locally sourced oysters at Williamsburg restaurants? Read on for more about all of this, and some tips on how to taste oysters like a pro.
A Revolution in Oysters
Throughout Virginia more than sixty aquaculture farms raise oysters, with new growers frequently joining their ranks, including in the waters surrounding the Revolutionary City.
The Historic Triangle (of Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown) where the native Virginia Indians and English settlers flourished because of the access to oysters, crabs, and fish, is nestled between two of the famed oyster-growing regions in the York and James rivers.
The growth of oyster aquaculture in Virginia is particularly remarkable, considering how far the oyster has come in just a few short years.
Within the last decade, the native Chesapeake Bay oyster was in such trouble that Maryland and Virginia explored the idea of introducing an Asian oyster to take its place. Ironically, that research showed how quickly the native oyster would grow via aquaculture and became a turning point for the industry.
Thanks to aquaculture, over the last several years, Virginia has evolved from having historically low oyster harvests to being a leader in oyster production on the East Coast.
Why? Growing oysters in cages suspended in the water greatly reduces the number of oysters eaten by other Chesapeake Bay animals and makes it easier for the oyster farmers to care for their product—and get that product to restaurants throughout the region.
Plan Your Williamsburg Oyster Tasting Trip
An easy way to plan your travels for sampling Virginia’s finest oysters is to explore the Virginia Oyster Trail (virginiaoystertrail.com) which highlights the seven different oyster-growing regions around the state and how visitors can experience the tastes of each region.
The Virginia Oyster Trail includes locations and contact information for tours with watermen, oyster tastings, culinary events, and where to purchase oysters.
Locally grown oysters are available in several Williamsburg area restaurants including Waypoint Seafood and Grill, Fat Canary, Berret’s Seafood Restaurant and Taphouse Grill, Kingsmill’s James Landing Grille, and the Fat Tuna Grill.
Tasting Oysters Like a Pro
Tasting oysters is like tasting wine, says Tommy Leggett, owner of Chessie Seafood on the York River and supplier of oysters to several Williamsburg restaurants.
Oysters, like grapes, take on characteristics from their environments. The saltier the water, the saltier the oyster, for example. In some cases, finer palates and regular oyster eaters can tell what rivers around the Chesapeake Bay an oyster was grown in, just based on the flavor.
For example, York River oysters tend to be moderately salty with a hint of sweetness, whereas oysters from the James River are saltier with a smoother finish.
Professional oyster tasters alike can often tell you that.
Yes. We said professional oyster taster. For those die-hard seafood lovers, here’s a dream job alert. Much as there are expert wine tasters, there are also expert oyster tasters, including Dr. Susan Park, a marine scientist from Richmond who was professionally trained by experts at Virginia Tech to detect different tastes of oysters.
So Just How Does a Pro Eat Oysters?
“People are often told to swallow a raw oyster whole, doused in cocktail or hot sauce,” Park says. “But that doesn’t do the oyster justice.”
To appreciate an oyster, and the differences between oysters of different regions, “you must eat it naked without any sauce,” Park says. “And you must chew it before swallowing. You’ll see that the flavors change as you chew. You’ll notice the salty ocean taste of the ‘liquor’ first, and then as you chew you’ll get a variety of flavors.”You may taste sweetness, creaminess, meat, grassy, seaweed, or fruity notes.
Today’s oyster growers continue Virginia’s long history of having the best-tasting oysters on the East Coast. And with oysters now available year round and throughout Williamsburg, there’s no better way to enjoy summer.
Forget Farm to Table. This is BAY to Mouth.
For those who want a more active and authentic oyster harvesting experience, consider taking a tour with a local waterman.
The Virginia Waterman’s Heritage Tourism Program (watermentours.com) provides on-water tours of aquaculture farms and wild harvests. These tours run, largely, year round, and captains can customize tours for groups large or small.
Among the participating captains is the owner/operator of Pleasure House Oysters, Chris Ludford, who provides tours on the Lynnhaven River, just south of Williamsburg.
“What’s interesting about my tour is that guests actually have an opportunity to get out of the boat and see how my farm works,” Ludford says.
Ludford supplies everything visitors need, including water shoes to walk around in the oyster farm itself. Ludford explains, “In about two hours, visitors see what takes me two years to produce—from tiny oyster seed to grown adult oyster.”
